Kamakhya: Immersing Your Soul into the Mystical Essence

Northeast, laterally known as the ‘Seven Sister States,’ is an amalgamation of hills and natural aesthetic beauty that captivates in a fascinating way. The words would have been shortened if I were to discuss them successively. Today, the topic that captivates my attention is the Kamakhya Temple.

A temple that carries both positive and negative connotations, oral legends and mysteries have long been entangled with this temple’s ideologies. However, aside from its mysterious legends and oral commandments, its architectural and sculptural beauty has much more to offer.

Overview

Sitting atop the Nilanchal Hill in the western part of Guwahati, Assam, the Kamakhya Temple stands as one of India’s most revered Goddess Shakti shrines. According to Hindu scriptures, there are four significant Shakti Peethas, temples imbued with the highest divine powers, in the country, and Kamakhya Temple proudly claims its place among them. This temple venerates the power of womanhood, and fertility, and holds a special reverence for the menstrual cycle, earning it a sacred status within the Tantric sect of Hinduism. Constructed and reconstructed multiple times from the 8th to the 17th centuries, it remains a mesmerizing architectural wonder.

The main entrance to Kamakhya Temple features exquisite yet simple carvings adorned with vibrant flowers. The temple boasts a grand dome with a backdrop of the serene Nilanchal Hills. It becomes especially resplendent during the Ambubachi Festival, a vibrant celebration held for 3-4 days in the month of June.

History

Earning its place as one of the oldest temples in our country, Kamakhya Temple is believed to have been constructed during the Mleccha dynasty in the 8th to 9th century. The Kamarupa Kings, from Indra Pala to Dharma Pala, were devout followers of the Tantrik cult, and during their rule, this temple emerged as a significant center for Tantrikism. In the 10th century, the Kalika Purana was composed, further elevating the temple’s importance as a hub for Tantrik rituals and sorcery. During this period, Mystic Buddhism or Vajrayana also took root here, with several Buddhist scholars in Tibet having connections to Kamakhya.

Unfortunately, the Kamakhya Temple faced destruction during Hussein Shah’s invasion of the Kamata kingdom. The temple’s remains lay undiscovered until the 1500s when Vishwasingha, the founder of the Koch Dynasty, resurrected it as a place of worship. In 1565, during the reign of his son, the Kamakhya Temple was reconstructed, and since then, it has remained a vital religious center for Hindus worldwide.

Structure

The structure of the Kamakhya Temple follows the Nilachal type, characterized by a hemispherical dome atop a cruciform-shaped base. The temple consists of four chambers aligned from east to west, described as follows:

Garbhagriha: The Garbhagriha, or main sanctum, sits on a base adorned with sunken panels featuring sculptures of Hindu deities, including Ganesha. The lower portions of the Garbhagriha are constructed from stone, while the zenith takes the form of an octagon made from bricks. This sanctum is situated below ground level and is accessible via a series of rock-cut steps. A rock fissure resembling a vulva-shaped depression is found here, revered as the goddess Kamakhya. This depression is filled with water from an underground spring, and this pattern is consistent in all the Garbhagrihas within the temple.

Calanta: Located to the west of the Kamakhya Temple is Calanta, a square-shaped chamber of the atchala type. This chamber houses small movable idols of Gods and Goddesses, while its walls are adorned with numerous images and inscriptions.

Pancharatna: Westward from Calanta is Pancharatna, a large rectangular structure with a flat roof and five small spires protruding from its roof.
Natamandir: Further to the west of Pancharatna lies Natamandir, the last structure. It features an apsidal end and a ridged roof in the Ahom style, known as Ranghar.

The Ambubachi festival

This festival celebrates women’s fertility. It is said that during this time, Goddess Kamakhya, Shiva’s young bride, menstruates. The temple remains closed for these three days, and after that, the goddess is bathed, and normal activities resume. This festival is observed during the monsoon, typically in the month of June. Local legends also suggest that during this time, our Mother Earth is at the peak of her fertility, with rainfall nurturing her womb. The river beside the temple turns red, inviting both mythological and scientific interpretations.

Mysteries associated with Kamakhya temple?

One of the mysterious legends about the temple, as mentioned earlier, involves the transformation of the Brahmaputra River water into red for three days in June, followed by its coloration. The goddess is also known as the ‘bleeding goddess.’ It is believed that the legendary womb and yoni of the goddess are installed within the temple compound. According to this belief, in the month of June, the goddess undergoes a symbolic menstrual cycle, and the reddening of the Brahmaputra River near Kamakhya is associated with this phenomenon. During these three days, the temple remains closed, and holy water is distributed among devotees

Some people claim that vermilion is put into the water during this time.

According to ancient scriptures, it is said that Goddess Shakti engaged in a fierce conflict with her husband, Lord Shiva, and attended her father’s great yagna without Lord Shiva’s approval. Customarily, Lord Shiva should have been invited to start the yagna, but he was not invited, and Sati’s father, Daksha, refused to pay respect to him. This led Sati to be furious at her husband’s insult, and she immolated herself in the fire of the yagna. When Lord Shiva arrived, he was overcome with rage. He placed Sati’s body on his shoulder and began his Tandava, known as the dance of destruction. To calm Lord Shiva, who could have destroyed the entire world in his fury, Lord Vishnu intervened, using his Sudarshan Chakra to cut Sati’s body into 108 pieces, which scattered across the Earth. The spot where her womb and yoni fell became the Kamakhya Temple.

The second mythological aspect of this temple is associated with vermilion. Rock pieces gathered from the Kamakhya Temple are often sold as Kamiya Sindoor. It is believed that this vermilion possesses the power to influence people’s minds, making it known as Vashikaran Sindoor. Sindoor is used in the creation of spiritual items believed to offer various benefits.

In terms of modern interpretations and scientific explanations, it is suggested that the soil in the area is rich in iron content, giving it a red color. Another reason could be that the shrine of Kamakhya is situated in the mountains with a significant deposit of cinnabar (mercury sulfide), which contributes to the red coloration. However, the specific reason why the water turns red only for those three days in June remains unclear. Scientists are making efforts to unravel this mystery, but the beauty of the temple lies in its mythological aspects..

How to reach?

• Dibrugarh Airport: If you’re coming from outside Assam, you can fly into Dibrugarh Airport, which is the nearest major airport to the temple.
• Local Transportation: From Dibrugarh, you can hire a taxi or use local transportation to reach the Kamyakha Temple. It’s located in the Dhemaji district of Assam.
• Ask Locals: Once you’re in the Dhemaji district, you can ask local residents or use GPS navigation to guide you to the specific location of the Kamyakha Temple.
• Roadways: Assam has a good network of roads, so you can also consider traveling by road if you’re coming from other parts of the state or nearby regions.

Please keep in mind that road conditions and transportation options may vary, so it’s a good idea to plan your trip and check for any updates or changes in transportation routes before you go.

Where to stay?

When visiting the Kamakhya Temple in Assam, you can consider staying in nearby towns or cities since accommodations may be limited in the immediate vicinity of the temple. Dhemaji is the district where the temple is located, and there may be lodging options available in and around Dhemaji town.
Look for hotels or guesthouses in Dhemaji town itself. This is the closest urban center to the temple.

What to eat?

You can try the local Assamese cuisines Assam is known for its delicious food, including dishes like Assam tea, rice, fish curry, and various regional specialties

Special Tips:

• Cameras are allowed, but please note that photography is strictly prohibited inside the temple.
• Dress appropriately and maintain the ethical decorum of the temple.
• Check the visiting hours as the temple has specific darshan (viewing) hours.
• Respect local customs; familiarize yourself with the local traditions and ideologies.

Final Thoughts:

This temple is not just a place of worship; it is a sanctuary of tantric practices and mythological legends. It stands apart from ordinary temples, where many disregard menstruation as impure. Here, womanhood, fertility, and menstruation are revered symbols of female power.

Kamakhya’s authorities, in collaboration with the Government of Assam, continuously strive to improve the temple, making it a favorite tourist destination. However, when I first encountered the temple from within, I was completely enchanted. The practices and aura of the temple are beyond description.

It’s true that this place remains unfamiliar to most visitors due to its unique identity. But I can emphatically state that every woman and man should visit it at least once in their lifetime. While hill stations and monuments are often celebrated, places like this, with their rich history and unique perspective on the world, should definitely be on your travel list. Traveling is about exploring the world and experiencing it from such a fascinating viewpoint will undoubtedly be an unforgettable journey. Travel with us.